Postcard from Berlin: 🎁🎄Holiday Edition
...the only thing missing is snow!
My family and I have been in Berlin for five months today. It would seem impossible except for the fact that my collection of outerwear has grown exponentially! So it’s the ripe time for another Postcard from Berlin- - -
Halloween dons its mask mid-October at TKMaxx but it’s not a thing here yet. Thanksgiving, of course, is absent. So Germany blows their whole wad on Christmas which starts in early November with lights.
Berlin itself is Christmas on Matzoh Crack. The city is drenched in sparkle and light.
The holiday vibe heats up mid November with Christmas tree sightings in the stores and on the SBahn!
The last week in November welcomes early Christmas markets. …and Christmas is 100% full-on. The glow can be enjoyed most of the day as well as the night because the sun keeps banker’s hours; rising around 8:00 and setting about 3:30.
The mom in Nestor’s occasional second family recommended a market in Mitte for ornaments and all I can say is, it pays to ask. Gendarmentmarkt was a treasure trove!
Day or night, downtown market or smallish neighborhood one, the seasonal Glüwein (mulled wine) flows…and the mistel enchants. Isn’t it lovely? Fresh, real mistletoe. I’d never seen it before!
You might be asking:
Are Berliners friendlier with all of this holiday cheer?
No.
Despite stall after stall of Gluhwein, Grog and other scented drinks, Berliners are as crisp as ever. As a native New Englander, curtness comes naturally. But ever since moving to Durham and with the modelling of warm Southerners like Janet, I’ve melted a bit. While I love Berlin very much, the curtness can sometimes make me a little blue. I’ve taken to smiling at children when they glance my way. That helps.
There’s also a Christmas film festival, ice skating (on actual ice and without), sledding down faux snow, and the Botanical Garden swathed in rainbow lights. And all of this rain or shine, freezing or sunny because Berliners have created an outdoor culture to hygge the cold. Heat lamps, candles, doors open even on the rainiest of days and cheery red, fleece blankets on the backs of cafe chairs.
All of it, too, for old folks and young. And by old folks, I mean the ones with canes and walking sticks.
Something interesting here is that the senior population is much more active than anywhere I’ve seen in the US. They’re on their bikes, riding public transit, drinking mead at an outdoor stand with their walker close by. My husband pointed out that we’d see this, too, if Durham was a city with strong public transit, high density of living and 4 million people…like Berlin. I’m sure he’s right but it still surprises me.
At our Berlin home, Christmas is modest. I forgot to pack our stockings and while the house came furnished, there were no decorations stashed in an attic. We have a small tree with a few thrifted Christmas balls and four special ornaments from the Gendarmenmarkt. My husband bought a lovely advent evergreen wreath (with four stout wine-colored candles) which is something we haven’t had before. But I miss the tomato cage tree that Janet made for me after she heard me complaining about our lack of outdoor outlets!
Happy holidays, if you celebrate to you and yours. I regret I can’t add your name here but know that of the many gifts I have in my life, (insert your name here!) your readership and support is one that I am so grateful for it. Thank you. <3
What I’m Reading:
(novel) The Heart’s Invisible Furies by John Boyne. A story of Ireland, 1940s to present day, through the eyes of our protagonist, Cyril. I read on Goodreads (follow me there) that Boyne is a huge John Irving fan and that tracks because Cyril feels like a cross between Homer (The Cider House Rules) and Johnny (A Prayer for Owen Meany). Sad, hilarious, sweet with snappy dialogue.
(memoir) The Beautiful Struggle by Ta-Nahisi Coates’ . While I grew up in the 80s, Coates’ world of Black families in inner city Baltimore was very far from my own experience. And I’ve never been a pop culture person—let alone music!—so some of Coates’ stories are over my head. Still, this book is a memoir that reads like a novel and dang…Coates’ memory of childhood detail is unreal!
In January, I’ll be starting All Fours by Miranda July (so.much.hype but I feel like I have to read it) but other than that I have little in the hopper. Ideas?
Recommended Links:
As I shared recently on BlueSky, I have a new practice of starting my writing day with a feel-good three odd minute movie clip. It’s getting me jazzed to do hard work. Here are a few recent ones: Richard Kimble in The Fugitive changing doctor’s orders and saving kid’s life; Nikki Giovanni reading her poem, Quilts; Gregory Hines and Mikhail Baryshnikov dancing together.
My good friend Dr Beverly Gray has started
which looks at the science and stories of abortion care in the US. This is the good work we need right now. Outlawed is on Tiktok, Insta, here and BlueSky. Share, listen, follow!I’m watching others dig into grassroots giving and here’s how I’m doing that.
I enjoyed this and smiled when you mentioned Nestor. Also clicked over and read about Janet again.
I always love hearing about your time abroad. Paul and I are missing Europe SO much! Getting to visit the Christmas markets in Germany (and Vienna!) is on my bucket list. I'm jealous!